Barbecue - A Holiday Tradition

I've recently waxed on about the wonder of suburban and rural American barbecue traditions. But after a second look, I may have been too complimentary, and need to clear a few things up. During my annual holiday visits back to Texas, I get vivid reminders that for reasons unknown, in certain regions barbecue is a matter taken much more seriously, and held closer to the cultural heart, than in others.

Texas is one of those places. Tasting barbecue from a nice little chain like Kinder's in Northern California, I can't help but feel like I'm making countless concessions for them, feeling encouraged by their local fanbase and their heritage, when all the while, in all honesty, I feel a little sorry for them. Here in Texas, it's easy as a native to take good, slow, smoky, red-lined brisket beef barbecue for granted, but after comparison to other regions, it becomes painfully obvious how how foolish this is. My appreciation has only developed after having left my home state for the west coast, and I cherish these trips back every year.

In Texas, barbecue may include pork, but beef is the star of the show. Brisket is justifiably at the top of the menu, and without it, the Texas tradition would have little right to claim its superiority. It is no coincidence that the Fort Worth Stockyards, the historical nexus of the cattle trade, remains studded with a galaxy of meaty meaty stars.



Riscky's Barbecue is one of them. It's a small regional chain, with a flagship restaurant in historic downtown Fort Worth. It was on these red brick streets that real Western gunfights took place; it is in that spirit of taking public opinion seriously that Riscky's has continued to please customers with spectacularly inspired barbecue.
 
My lunch today embodied much of what makes Texas barbecue special. In my chopped (not sliced, thankyouverymuch) brisket sandwich, I experienced the perfect balance of deep woody smoke, caramelized and vinegary tomato-based barbecue sauce and perfectly soft and tender slow-cooked beef. It is simple, served on a plastic tray on paper with a Polish pickle, a pickled jalepeño, a slice of onion.
 
I do not completely understand it; I could not dream of reproducing it myself, and respect anyone who can. But I know it when I taste it, and I am proud to have it as a birthright. Happy Holidays, y'all.

The paper towels are a sign of taking things seriously.

Fried corn nuggets - what could be wrong with that?

The heart of the Texas mystery

Not all traditions are classy