An oasis of real food in Texas

The times are a changin' in Austin

After my first trip in three years to Austin, Texas, I can report that something exciting is happening to the culinary landscape. Now I should mention here that I grew up in Texas, and will never lose the soft spot in my heart for real barbecue brisket, breakfast tacos, and, yes..even Whataburger.

However, my personal food awakening only really took hold after I left. So admittedly, my food memories of this place, where gourmet food was always imported and everyday food was factory-made, pale in comparison to the kaleidoscopic food landscape in my backyard of Northern California, where sublime gastro-experiences are ubiquitous.

But this recent visit back to the central time zone showed me that there is a food revolution going on throughout the country, not just on the coasts, and that awareness is being raised in areas that have traditionally been challenging environments in which to find or even grow good honest real food.

If anyplace in Texas was going to embrace slow food first, it was going to be Austin, the 'hole in the doughnut' of a state otherwise suffering from a sociopolitical image problem. I'm proud to have lived in this fine city during the mayoral election in which Leslie Cochran, a transgender homeless activist, garnered almost 8% of the popular vote.

Needless to say, Austinites are comfortable with progressive thought. Austin is the home of Whole Foods, now expanding across the country (and goodness, even into the UK). It's the home to Central Market, another bastion of gourmet goodness, being kept as a Texan secret for the time being. But the list continues - Real Ale Brewing Company in Blanco, Texas is carrying the torch for handcrafted brewing, Tito's Vodka, made just outside Austin, is the first legal distilled spirit to come from the state, is made in small batches smooth enough to drink with just a splash of soda, and Sweet Leaf Tea is honest and simple and has a tirade against high fructose corn syrup on their website. Who would have expected it?
Cissi's Market on South Congress is a little cornucopia of gourmet goodness, with Jo's coffees, grass-fed beef from Bastrop Cattle Company, 'happy chicken' eggs, the full lineup of Real Ale Company's offerings, plus locally-sourced produce and prepared foods.

Just down the street at Farm to Market Grocery, more local produce abounds, from soaps and pickles and hot sauces. Their supplier list shows the zeitgeist of Texan natural foods in its full breadth.
The selection might be limited and the produce case might be small, but this is the kind of enthusiasm needed to get this movement off the ground. All just a little more proof that supporting the producers who support the cause is the only way to make changes in our food systems. Keep up the good work, y'all!